Chimney Relining
A new liner restores a flue that's cracked, gapped, or simply past its era.
Learn moreThe crown is the concrete slab at the very top of the chimney, and it takes the worst of the weather so the brick underneath doesn't have to. Almost every crown cracks eventually. The question is whether someone catches it before water starts working down through the masonry. Small cracks get filled and coated with a flexible sealant that moves with North Texas temperature swings; badly broken crowns get rebuilt. It's exactly the kind of quiet, invisible problem a yearly visit exists to catch while it's still a patch.
Bronze or stainless cap with spark arrestor, fully custom-fabricated to your flue.
Drag the model to rotate — see exactly where this component lives in your chimney.
The crown is the chimney's roof, and on most chimneys it was the first thing built wrong. A proper crown is a sloped, reinforced concrete cap that overhangs the brick by two inches or more, drains water away from the masonry, and isolates the flue tile with an expansion joint so thermal movement never cracks it. What countless chimneys actually have is a flat mortar wash troweled flush to the brick — a detail that cracks in its first few freeze-thaw cycles and funnels water straight into the structure. PCS Services repairs and rebuilds crowns to the standard the original mason skipped, because the crown is the single most cost-effective place to stop water before it starts.
The right repair depends on the crown's condition, and we are precise about the distinction. For a structurally sound crown with hairline cracking, we brush-apply a flexible elastomeric CrownCoat-type membrane that bridges the cracks and sheds water while remaining elastic through temperature swings — a craftsman's seal, not a brittle patch. For a crown that is cracked through, spalled, or was never more than a mortar wash, the responsible answer is a recast: we demolish the failed crown and form-and-pour a new sloped concrete crown with the overhang, drip-edge kerf, embedded reinforcement, and flue-tile expansion joint that make it last for decades. We tell you honestly which your crown needs — sealing a crown that should be recast is throwing money at a structure that will fail anyway.
Because the crown sits at the top of the leak hierarchy, getting it right protects everything beneath it: the brick, the flue, the firebox, your ceilings. We detail the bond-break isolation around each flue tile, the drip kerf that throws runoff clear of the brick face, and the slope that drains rather than ponds — the small details that separate a crown that lasts from one that cracks again next winter. On a wide or multi-flue top we embed wire mesh or rebar reinforcement against cracking, install backer rod and high-temp sealant in the expansion joint so thermal movement doesn't telegraph into the concrete, and trim the protruding flue tile to the 2-to-4-inch projection code wants rather than burying it or leaving it over-long. We also address the smaller crown failures honestly — a single cracked top course of clay flue tile, a chimney pot that's cracked through — repairing the specific defect instead of recommending a recast you don't need.
The same crown-detailing standard governs the work in every market we serve, so a recast crown carries the same engineering whether it caps a stack in a freeze-thaw Northern climate or a hot, expansive-soil Texas metro. Build the crown right and you have addressed the leading cause of chimney water damage at its source — that is the premium logic of starting at the top.
At PCS Services, a crown repair & sealing is never guesswork. We scope every job from a graded, photographed inspection first — the NFPA 211 level the evidence calls for — so the work is matched to what your flue and masonry actually need, with the report to prove it. The documented inspection is the record the crown repair & sealing is built on.
Chimney inspectionA crown repair & sealing isn't a matter of opinion — it's held to published national standards. PCS builds every job to the named codes below and documents it, so the work is provably right for an inspector, an insurer, or a future buyer. These are the universal standards; your city's permit and inspection requirements are confirmed with the local authority before we pull the job.
A correct crown overhangs the brick by roughly 2 in or more and carries a drip kerf, so runoff is thrown clear of the masonry face instead of running down the brick.
The crown is sloped — not flat — so water drains off rather than ponds. A flat mortar wash troweled flush to the brick is the failure we recast away from.
The crown isolates each flue tile with a bond-break / expansion joint so thermal movement of the hot flue never cracks the crown concrete.
Clay flue tile is trimmed to project roughly 2-4 in above the finished crown — proud enough to shed water clear of the crown, not buried flush or left over-long.
Codes cited are the established national standards (NFPA, UL, IRC) that govern this service. The adopted code edition, permit, and inspection requirements vary by city —PCS verifies them with your local authority having jurisdiction on every job.
Photo-document the crown — sealable cracks vs. full rebuild scope.
CrownCoat sealing OR full demo + rebuild with proper overhang.
Materials cured per spec, drip edge engineered, watershed angle correct.
1-year workmanship warranty + CrownCoat manufacturer warranty.
We've worked on 0+ DFW homes over 15+ years. Every job — small sweep or full rebuild — runs the same way: certified technicians, written quotes, photo reports, warranty in writing.
CrownCoat™ flexible sealant for hairline cracks
Full rebuilds in code-compliant Type S mortar
Proper overhang + drip edge engineered in
Insurance-grade documentation included
Family-owned, licensed and insured, working to NFPA 211. We're the team you call when you want it done right the first time — no rotating subcontractors, no upsell pressure, no surprises. Same techs, same trucks, same standard.

One full visit a year: a complete sweep, a top-to-bottom inspection, and a photo report you keep. Between visits you get the part you can't see — we track your schedule, send the reminders, and hold priority slots for plan members during the fall rush. If a repair ever comes up, you get a written quote first. There's no contract; the plan renews only if you want it to.
Before we leave your first visit, next year's window goes on our calendar. When it gets close, we reach out — text or call, your choice — and you pick the exact day. If you don't answer, we try again. That's the entire trick of the plan: your chimney gets maintained because someone whose job it is remembered, not because you happened to.
Honestly, no. If your chimney was built or fully relined in the past year, wait — it doesn't need a plan yet, and we'd rather tell you that than sell you one. Same if you have a gas-only fireplace you light twice a winter: an inspection every year or two covers you. Plans earn their keep for wood burners and busy households. On the fence? Ask. We'll tell you straight.
Late spring through summer is the smart window. The chimney's done for the season, everything winter did to it is visible, and appointments are easy to get. Most people call in October instead, when the calendar's slammed and the first cold front is a week away. Either works. But book in June and you'll never think about it in October.
Because the first cold snap is the chimney trade's alarm clock. From September through November, everyone who forgot their fireplace all year remembers it in the same two weeks, and every sweep in Dallas–Fort Worth is booked solid. It's the worst time to need an appointment, and it's the whole reason our plans schedule you automatically before the crowd shows up.
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Free written quote. Same-week scheduling. 24/7 emergency response when you need it.
Active leak, animal in flue, post-fire damage, or smoke event? Real humans on the line 7 AM to 12 AM every day — replies in under 2 minutes. Tech dispatch within 2 hours during business hours, subject to crew availability after-hours.
Emergency line